![]() That makes the script as low latency as possible, because there is no other stuff in the void loop() that take processing power/time. There are documented examples that come with the library, in short words, a midi callback means that in the void loop() there is only this function to look at the Rx PIN and see if there is some kind of MIDI information coming in. It uses a technique called MIDI callbacks. Later on in the script you will see its easy fixable, by defining the pins in a different order.Īnother thing to mention is, that the motor has 64 steps per revolution, plus has a gearbox attached that has 1/64 ratio, which makes the whole setup a 4096 steps/rev stepper.įor the Arduino Script, make sure you got the following libraries:īefore looking at the code, whats the point of the script? It took me an afternoon to find that out, no idea why no one mentions that. One important thing with these steppers is, that the power-lines to the motor are not in the correct order. They use 5V and i power them directyl from the 5V pin of my Arduino micro, which makes it a very small package.įrom the 5 motors i ordered, two got damaged gears which made them unusable. You would need a different driver if you would convert them, so i didn't do it. They are unipolar steppers, which are not that common nowadays, but can be converted to bipolar steppers. The 28BYJ-48 is a very small and very inexpensive (bought mine for 4€/piece on amazon) stepper motors, that come with a small (around 1"x1") driver board. I cut the cables that connect the stepper with the driver, shortend them and soldered them directly to the rear side of the drivers.īoth power lines of the stepper driver boards are soldered to two respective strips of the chassis PCB.Īs you can see on the photos, there is a third cable soldered to to that area, i plan to use it for a camera trigger on a later point. The drivers of the two steppers are mounted with M3 bolts too, as you can see on the photo from above, you could also use longer bolts for the drivers and use the same on both. I will add a drawing where you can count the holes in the PCB to get the dimensions. I used the 3mm drill for all holes except the axles. ![]() ![]() ![]() On the photos there is a beltwheel mounted to it, but you can also use a rubberized wheel with more traction to use it without the belt like on the servo powered microdolly i made earlier. One of the steppers represents the third (powered) wheel. As you can see on the photos, the dolly is made from two PCBs that form the two sides, connected by two M8 bolts that function as axles for the free spinning wheels. ![]()
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